Police officers in full riot gear watch over hundreds of Basque separatists marching in support of senior ETA member Inaki de Juana Chaos in San Sebastian August 26, 2006. The banner reads in Basque, 'No to life sentence. Release Inaki de Juana.' REUTERS/Pablo Sanchez (SPAIN)
Thousands of people march through Bilbao, northern Spain, behind a Basque, a Lebanese and a Palestinian flag to support self government for the Basque country and to show support for the Palestinians and the Lebanese August 25, 2006. The banner reads 'Self government for the Basque Country'. REUTERS/Vincent West (SPAIN)Basque tradition
Poteo in Bilbao
08/22/2006
Although somewhat modernised, Bilbao maintains the age-old tradition of the “poteo” or “txikiteo” (going from bar to bar with a group of friends and having small glasses of wine).
Once a predominately male custom, this ritual is now commonly practiced by women as well. In the early evening, particularly on Thursdays and Fridays, people meet for a round of potes, named after the now obsolete heavy wine glasses once commonly used.
The term “txikiteo” comes from the name of the coin that once covered the cost of a glass of wine. García Rivero street and Plaza Campuzano are the hot spots in the city centre, as well as the Estraunza district. And not too far from here Licenciado Poza and Dr. Areilza streets bustle with the younger crowd.
Diputación street, in the middle of Gran Vía, and the new shopping zone known as the Ensanche are popular because of the pedestrian-only streets and the number of bars serving creative upscale “pintxos”. Next to Jardines de Albia gardens, Ledesma and Arbieto streets, also for pedestrians only, attract great numbers of people in the evening. The so-called ‘Guggenheim effect’ and the quality of the bars surrounding the museum are turning Iparraguirre, Ajuriaguerra and Heros streets into a new “poteo” zone.
And last but certainly not least for lovers of this ritual is the Casco Viejo, or Old Town. Here you will find such places as the well-loved Plaza Nueva square with its sidewalk cafés and relaxing atmosphere. There are countless “pintxo” bars near the intersection of Perro and Sanguinaria streets, some of which are even mentioned in the Michelin Guide.
Mouth of the river Nervion
A walk by Santurtzi: a Basque fishing port
08/20/2006
With the monument to the Carmen Virgin, the sea people’s beloved patroness, and the Brotherhood of Fishermen as reference points, the fishing port receives colourful boats.
Dominating the left border of the Abra, the mouth of the River Nervión, Santurtzi is a village, which has always been related to its great port and to its sardines, the ones that are remembered in the folk song “Desde Santurce a Bilbao…”.
Besides, foot as an outdoors sculpture museum can cross it. Up to its classic monuments dedicated to the Carmen Virgin, in the fishing port, and to the sardine woman’s image, in Iparraguirre promenade, Santurtzi has recently added a genuine outdoors contemporary sculpture museum. Fifteen works by Spanish and foreign sculptors have been installed in what they want to be a plural and growing museum. The Sculpture Museum of Santurtzi consists of fifteen bronze and steel works, a new proposal which spreads over its principal parks and promenades.
The art is another appeal for a walk, which may begin in the fishing port and continue by the marina. There, around the sports centre, we will find the first pieces of the sculpture museum.
Next to Ramón Rubial Park, the Oriol Palace takes us back to a century ago. This building, built by the architect Achurraco, is an eclectic style example from the beginning of the twentieth century. They have just reopened it as a hotel called Palacio de Oriol NH Hotel.
Going off along the Cristóbal Murrieta Avenue, we will arrive at the Town Hall and at San Jorge’s Church. This 1905 Town Hall building of French inspiration has two curious domes covered by black slate and stained glass in its inside staircase.
Further on, the monument to the sardine woman is in Iparraguirre promenade, of course, “with her skirt tucked up / showing off his calf…”. Laucarini is the author of the sculpture, which pays homage to the sardine woman traditional figure, who used to sell fish charmingly.
Statement
ETA says peace process is now "in a clear situation of crisis''
08/18/2006
The band explicitly referred to the governing party in the Basque Autonomous Region and that in the Spanish State, and warned that "if the attacks continue against Euskal Herria, ETA will respond."
The armed Basque group ETA said Friday that the peace process launched in Spain with its cease-fire declaration five months ago is now in crisis, accusing politicians of delaying steps toward a settlement of the conflict.
The band explicitly referred to Basque Nationalist Party PNV, governing party in the Basque Autonomous Region, and Socialist Party PSOE, governing party in the Spanish State.
In a communiqué issued to Basque Country newspapers Gara and Berria, ETA said the peace process was at an "impasse". It accused the government of hounding Basque nationalist politicians and threatened an unspecified "response" if this continued. "If the attacks continue against Euskal Herria (Basque country in Basque language), ETA will respond," the group said.
Thus, it made a vague warning to "respond" if the Spanish government continues what ETA called repression of Basque pro-independence militants.
In Friday's statement ETA accused the ruling Socialist party and the Basque Nationalist Party, which governs the troubled northern region, of "showing a clear will to delay the steps to be taken.'' Neither party is interested in negotiating any real changes to the Basque country's status within Spain, ETA said. And Zapatero's party just wants to make history by ending the decades-old conflict and is trying to "convert the peace process into a mere tool for staying in power.'' The peace process, it added, "is in a clear situation of crisis,'' the statement said.
ETA also repeated a charge that the Spanish government had agreed to a "cease-fire" of its own in talks leading up to the ETA truce, apparently agreeing to stop arresting ETA members. But the government is not living up to this commitment, ETA charged.
The government has repeatedly denied it made any promises with ETA to elicit the militants' cease-fire, which began in late March.
President José Luis Rodríguez Zapatero announced formally in Parliament in late June that his government would hold talks with ETA on getting it to dissolve. The government is to brief the legislature in September on how the peace process is going. Zapatero has said the process could take years.
ETA has been fighting since the late 1960s in its campaign for a Basque homeland straddling northern Spain and southwest France. Prior to the cease-fire announcement it had not staged a fatal attack since May 2003.
Peace process
Batasuna leader voices "worry" for socialists' "lack of maturity"
08/17/2006
Likewise, outlawed Batasuna spokesman has regretted the attempts of the Socialist Party to "distort" the contents of a future agreement for political normalisation.
Banned leftwing nationalist spokesman, Arnaldo Otegi, has voiced today his "worry" for the development of the peace process due to the "lack of maturity and responsibility of socialist leaders. In his opinion, they try to "distort" the contents of a future agreement for political normalisation in the Basque Country.
Otegi, who offered a press conference in Donostia-San Sebastián alongside party member Rufi Etxeberria, has said nobody can believe that in the talks with socialists preceding the cease-fire Navarre was not taken as part of the peace process, or that leftwing nationalism swore allegiance to the Spanish Constitution, as some socialist leaders pretend to affirm.
Likewise, he has voiced his will to work for a compromise within the next few weeks to start a multiparty dialogue that doesn't exclude territories and respects the will of Basques.
Recipe
La Piperade- Basque Omelette
08/16/2006
Beat 4 eggs slightly with salt and pepper and stir them vigorously into the hot vegetable mixture, raising the heat so the eggs will cook quickly. Slide the omelette whole onto a heated platter.
Slice a small sweet green pepper finely and sauté it very slowly in olive oil.
Add salt and pepper, 1 small onion, chopped 1 small clove of garlic, chopped and mashed, and 2 ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and coarsely chopped.
Add 1 generous tablespoon shredded cooked ham and simmer the mixture slowly for about 30 minutes, or until the vegetables are rather soft.
Add 1-tablespoon butter.
Beat 4 eggs slightly with salt and pepper and stir them vigorously into the hot vegetable mixture, raising the heat so the eggs will cook quickly. Slide the omelette whole onto a heated platter.
Church and feudal tower
Way of St. James in the Basque Country : Portugalete and Muskiz
08/15/2006
Portugalete, at the mouth of the estuary, is another obvious example of a Middle Age city, with its layout of ordered streets, walls, church and feudal tower.
This town was created by Doña María Díaz de Haro, the Good, widow of Prince John, who was murdered by Don Tello, and was granted the fuero de Logroño in 1322. Its old part has been declared an Historic-Artistic monument.
It has a remarkable church, called Santa María, which is Gothic in style with three naves and a vault supported by strong columns. A primitive construction, dating from the 14th century, not much is left of the original since it was rebuilt in the 15th and 16th centuries. It has a small triforium in keeping with typical pilgrim’s churches. Although Renaissance in general, its altarpiece is outstanding for its 14th century Andra Mari, by the master Guiot de Beaugrant. It also has a small altar dedicated to Saint James the Moor Slayer at Clavijo.
Not far from here, defending one of the entrances to the town, above the ancient port, is Salazar Tower. The Salazar family was an important lineage from the Encartaciones region, whose influence spread through the Mena Valley to the Jurisdiction of Castile. Its most famous member is the first chronicler of Biscay, Don Lope García de Salazar, who left us a precious historic document, a real social and political chronicle, and a mirror of noble life in the late Middle Ages with his work: “Biendazas y Fortunas”. This tower was the setting for Don Lope’s “adventures”, such as his escape from the hands of his own sons who had taken him prisoner; on leaving the tower he took refuge in the belfry of Santa María, until he was recaptured.
Portugalete is explicitly and directly documented by a pilgrim. The person in question is the Armenian Martyr Bishop, de Arzendjan, who made the return journey along the coastal route in 1494; settling in “the great city of Portugalete” on his way back.
We continue on towards Muskiz, home to the Muñatones Castle, cradle and ancestral home of the Salazar lineage, and perhaps the most outstanding of all Bizkaian fortresses. This castle had a nearby palace and hermitage, dedicated to San Martín; these buildings were declared an Historic-Artistic Monument in 1944.
In prison, and after two escape attempts, Don Lope states: “...here, in my birthplace of San Martín, a prisoner of those I engendered and raised, fearing a poisoned drink and that the unorganised covetousness for taking my belongings will prevent them from setting me free, I await the mercy of God and rid myself of thought and imagination by writing this book”. He was poisoned as feared at the age of seventy.
We continue along the coast towards Finisterre, through Cantabrian lands.
Internet tool
Learning Basque language promoted in Australia
08/14/2006
The Boga system is a computer program designed to learn Basque through the Internet. It has been set up in the Basque Centres of Sydney and Townsville.
The Basque language will be given impetus in Australia as the Boga system has been put into operation at the Basque Centres in Sydney and Townsville. Boga is a computer program designed to learn Basque through the Internet.
The Culture Department of the Basque Government explained Monday in a statement that the head of the Basque Communities' Relations Abroad, Josu Legarreta, and the co-ordinator of the program "Euskara Munduan" (Basque around the world), Kinku Zinkunegi, visited Australia to promote the program.
In their trip, Legarreta and Zinkunegi visited Sydney, Townsville and Melbourne. They didn't install the Boga system in Melbourne since the Basque community was too small there and they didn't have headquarters for their use.
The same sources reminded that the Boga method is already working in different countries in Europe, South America and the United States.
The origins of "Euskara Munduan," set up in 2000, goes back to 16 years ago, when the plan "Argentina Euskaraz" (Argentina in Basque), a program that was taken form Argentina to other countries wanting to promote learning Basque, started.
Thousands of Basque separatists march in San Sebastian August 13, 2006, during a demonstration that was initially banned by the Spanish High Court as it was called by the outlawed separatist party Batasuna. REUTERS/Pablo Sanchez (SPAIN)Sheer sheep
Europeans still tend to flocks in Colo. high country
August 11, 2006
By Gregory Moore | Herald Outdoors Editor
Tending sheep in the high country is a tradition as old as any in the high country.
And for generations, sheepherders came from the Basque country in Europe to watch over the flocks as they grazed in alpine meadows, like those found near the top of Engineer Pass, at 12,800 feet above sea level.
"My father came over in 1947," said Ernie Etchart, one of a group of sheep ranchers gathered near the top of the pass on a chilly first day of August for the annual Sheep Day open house.
"He tended sheep right over in the Wetterhorn area," Etchart added, indicating one of the tallest peaks standing clear of a hundred others, just to the east of the pass. "He even climbed Uncompahgre Peak."
Etchart's father passed on more than the ranching tradition to his son, whose flocks work their way up to treeline and beyond in the summer, then spend winters in the warmer desert country west of Montrose.
And while Etchart, like most of the sheep ranchers, doesn't stay full time with his flocks - today's shepherds come from Mexico and South America - he doesn't miss a chance to get into the high country, bringing supplies and checking on his charges.
"It's one of the reasons I do what I do," he said, pointing out at the scenery. "What more can you ask for?"
Etchart's family was with him on Engineer Pass. His wife, Chris, was serving cups of hot chili and cookies to curious tourists out of a small tent, a welcome shelter when the squalls of freezing rain rolled over the pass.
Hannah, 12, and Nathan, 9, were asking folks to sign a guest register and were showing off a beautiful 8-month-old border collie pup on a leash.
Edna Mason, the lone U.S. Forest Service employee in the agency's Lake City office, has helped organize the event for eight years. And while she was dressed in her official USFS green jacket and was prepared to answer some tough questions from visitors about the impacts of sheep grazing in the alpine environment, it was clear she also was among friends and family.
"Sheep grazing in these areas is sustainable," said Mason, who has worked with the sheep ranchers for a large part of her career. "The sheep are really light on the land."
That contradicts what many people think, Mason knows. And she's quick to add that she used to feel the same way. For the most part, she added, people have a perception that sheep are much tougher on the land than cattle.
"The (grazing) allotments are so large, the sheep only have to go over an area once. And sheep graze uphill, where cattle like to go downhill and sit in the riparian areas. I've spent years in this country. I truly believe the areas that we graze are in better shape than the ones we don't."
But there was a sense of irony in the chilly air of Engineer Pass as well. Because an industry that has battled so long for acceptance from the public may not, due to economic factors, live to enjoy it.
"It's all going to depend on economics, whether we'll see these flocks up here in the coming years," Mason said.
Dominic Inda, a member of another ranching family with roots in the Basque country, was not as diplomatic.
"My dad and my uncle, who are partners, came from Spain in 1963," he said. "I used to say that I would like to do this for the rest of my lifetime, but not anymore. With the prices the way they are - and all the expenses - they don't even out.
"It's a great tradition, and it's been in my family for a long time, but it's dying off."
Route of oaths
Way of St James in the Basque Country: From Gernika to Bilbao (II)
08/12/2006
Our itinerary will eventually coincide, as we have already said, with the Route of Oaths, where the Spanish king swore the Bizkaians that he would maintain and guard their fuero, or charter.
Before reaching the neighbourhood of Goikolexea in the Basque town of Larrabetzu, we will come to a Renaissance cross signalling the way up to Aretxabalagana. The recently restored temple dedicated to the martyrs of Calahorra (called Calagurris by the Romans), Saint Emeterius and Saint Celedonius stands in the Goikolexea neighbourhood.
Although this building originated in the Roman period, the temple standing today is no older than 1500. It still houses the stone table of the parish, around which debates were held and decisions taken on all kinds of subjects concerning the local community. This building houses one of the most important altarpieces in Bizkaia, Spanish-Flemish in style, in gold-plated polychromed wood, representing the Annunciation, the Nativity scene, the martyrdom of Emerterius and Celedonius, etc.
Larrabetzu is another of the twenty Middle Aged towns existing in Bizkaia, and was founded by Prince John in 1376. The urban layout of the town, still visible, was typical of those lying along the Road to Santiago: the houses were lined up one after the other along a street which was really part of the said road. The church of Santa María, still has a lovely, typically 15th century statue of Our Lady.
Civil architecture
From here we enter the valley of the River Asúa, which is now completely rundown due to its dense population and important industrial activity. Lezama, with its Roadside Shrine of Santa Cruz, dating from 1542, had an adjoining hospital and still contains a mural depicting scenes from the pilgrimage to Santo Domingo de la Calzada.
Zamudio offers the interesting church of San Martín, a dedication clearly related to the pilgrimage, and Malpica Tower, an excellent example of Gothic civil architecture, which, it is said, although based on flimsy historical proof, was raised in the 9th century by Galindo Ordoñez, grandson of the King of Navarre, Fortún Garcés.
Seven Streets
San Martín was built in the period of transition from the Romanesque to the Gothic periods, with 15th century Basque Gothic additions. Making our way through Sondika, we come to Artxanda pass, which separates us from Bilbao. The traveller will arrive at the Middle Age Bilbao of three and later seven streets, and the church of Nuestra Sra. de Begoña. The road takes us directly to Artagan hill, topped by the Virgin of Begoña.
This parish was the traveller’s last stop before entering Bilbao; in 1300 Diego López de Haro, the founder of Bilbao, mentioned the temple in a document about the foundation of the town. Outstanding from this period is the beautiful statue of the Virgin Mary, dating from the Romanesque transition (13th-14th century). Nevertheless, the present temple was built in 1519 and enlarged in 1588; Gothic in style with three naves, it has series of beautiful star-shaped groin vaults.
Billabong Pro Mundaka
ASP WCT Mens Event
Mundaka, Euskadi-Spain
3 - 14 October 2006
Billabong Pro Mundaka: The Bank Is Back
Surfersvillage Global Surf News, 11 August, 2006 : - - Following the cancellation of the Billabong Pro Mundaka in 2005, Billabong and the Association of Surfing Professionals (ASP) are pleased to announce that the tenth event of the Foster’s ASP Men’s World Tour is officially back from October 3rd to 14th, 2006.
Sand dredging in the years prior to 2005 caused the perfect left breaking sand formation of the Mundaka bank to shift, resulting in waves of a substandard nature for a World Championship Tour (WCT) event to take place.
It was the second cancellation in the events six-year history, after the second half of the WCT was canned in 2001 following the tragic events of September 11 in New York. Although the event has been on the 2006 tour event schedule since January, the ASP and licensing sponsor Billabong have closely monitored the formation of the sand bank, declaring that 2006 will offer quality waves, suitable for the top 45 dream tour.
The world’s best left-hander and the associated shifting silt river mouth bank is back, longer, thicker and better than ever. During the month of April in 2006, one of the best swells in 15 years pounded the Basque coast, turning on epic 8ft (2-3m) waves at the mythical left, surfers scoring some of the best tube rides ever ridden at the break.
The Billabong Pro Mundaka plays a crucial part in deciding world champions, an intense competition where tour leaders jostle for ratings points leading into the final two events of the year in Brazil and Hawaii.
Mark Occhilupo (Aus), Kelly Slater (USA), Andy Irons (Haw), Shane Dorian (Haw) and Luke Egan (Aus) are the only surfers to have enjoyed the ritualistic practise of being thrown into the river from the wharf following event wins at Mundaka, since the events inception in 1999.
ASP president and 1978 world surfing champion Wayne “Rabbit” Bartholomew said Mundaka is crucial to the ASP World Tour.
"ASP International is delighted to see the return of the Billabong Pro Mundaka following a one year hiatus,” said Bartholomew. “The fears associated with the temporary disintegration of the fabled river mouth sandbar have been allayed, the result being the world’s best surfers once again gracing this world class surfing arena."
Reid Pinder, Brand Manager of Billabong Europe said bringing the tour back to the Basque region of Spain is beneficial not only to the ASP tour but vital for surfing in Europe. "Returning to Mundaka for the Billabong Pro event is great news for all involved,” said Pinder. It was definitely a hard decision to cancel last years event, since then we have not stopped monitoring the situation.”
“It's great to see Mundaka pumping again and that Mother Nature could restore what human hands had wrecked. On behalf of Billabong, I would like to thank the ASP and the WCT surfers for their patience in a wave like Mundaka and expressing so much interest in its progress. We look forward in returning the WCT event back to its natural home in the Basque Country, at Europe's best left.”
“Billabong would especially like to thank Mundaka, the town and the surf club, for their concern, support and commitment in bringing back such a special event to their beautiful home."
The world’s top 45 surfers hold Mundaka in high regard, a favourite stop among many for the unique local culture, epic waves, beautiful scenery and friendly nature of the Basque people.
“When Mundaka was called off I couldn’t believe it,” said three times world champion Andy Irons (Kauai). “Mundaka is such a good wave and the place is so beautiful; I wasn’t really sure of what happened to the wave, with the dredging and the sand bank, and how long it would take to return, so I was really bummed.”
“I was hanging out with Occy at the time and he was the same,” said Irons. “That’s his spot down there, he’s the man, he’s kind of the unofficial Mayor of the place. When he shows up, everybody comes to see him, they know about his first name! He loves it, and he surfs the wave like no one else.”
Colorado Euskal Etxea
Celebrate Basque Heritage Night in Honor of Aitor Karanka
08/11/2006
The Colorado Rapids have announced that the game against the Los Angeles Galaxy on Saturday, will be the date for the first Rapids Basque Heritage Night in honor of Rapids defender Aitor Karanka.
In honor of defender Aitor Karanka, originally from Vitoria-Gasteiz, fans can immerse themselves in the culture of the Basque region in the Rapids Basque Village before the game from 5:30 to 7:30 p.m. on the Legends Mall. There will be booths with Basque merchandise, information on local Basque clubs, and a photo exhibit of Basque regions. Fans can also enjoy the unique sights of Basque dancers while listening to authentic music from the Basque country. The Buenos Aires Grill will be serving Basque food in the Village to give the night an authentic feel, and there will also be drink specials in the Rapids Beer Garden from 5:30-7:30pm.
At halftime, fans can enjoy an authentic Basque welcome for Karanka, when a short dance in his honor is performed and he is welcomed by the head of the North American Basque Organizations (NABO).
There will be a Basque-specific section close to the field and seats are still available for $10, which includes a red bandana courtesy of the Basque Night Official Sponsors: the Spring International Learning Center, and the Colorado Euskal Etxea. Also, for all Basque section fans, there will be a meet-and-greet with Karanka after the game where fans can ask questions and get autographs from the former Athletic Bilbao and Real Madrid star. For more information on the Rapids’ inaugural Basque Heritage Night, group ticket information, or to find out how your organization can participate in the Basque Village, go to www.coloradorapids.com.
Recipe
Garlic paste and Basque "piares" vinaigrette
08/11/2006
Add minced shallot or garlic, minced fresh herbs, lemon zest and juice, cracked black pepper (garlic paste mix plus ingredients).
In a small bowl chop up equal amounts of garlic and parsley (equal amounts experiment with your own proportional mix).
Add minced shallots for taste.
Chop by hand or use a small food processor. No salt needed unless to your taste. Add butter, margarine or olive oil if needed (Different taste for meats do not use for vinaigrette - butter not as healthy).
Put in jar and refrigerate. Spread on meat before cooking. Can also be used as a ready mixed vinaigrette (see below)
Basque "piares" vinaigrette
This vinaigrette is delicious. It can even be served as a base as well.
Add minced shallot or garlic, minced fresh herbs, lemon zest and juice, cracked black pepper (garlic paste mix plus ingredients). Use it with grated carrots or beets, fresh tomatoes, or any other vegetable mixture.
Ingredients:
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 to 3 teaspoons red wine vinegar
3 tablespoons bland oil such as sunflower
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
Whisk the mustard and the red wine together in a small bowl. Slowly whisk in the 3 tablespoons of oil until the mixture is thickened, then whisk in the olive oil. Taste for seasoning. Makes about 1/3-cup vinaigrette, enough for about 14 cups of greens.
Route of oaths
Way of St. James in the Basque Country: From Gernika to Bilbao (I)
08/11/2006
Our itinerary will eventually coincide, as we have already said, with the Route of Oaths, where the Spanish king swore the Bizkaians that he would maintain and guard their fuero, or charter.
We leave Gernika-Lumo and continue on our way towards Bilbao along the so-called Route of Oaths. The parish church of Muxika, San Vicente, is one of the few still to contain Romanesque remains on our territory. These remains take the shape of a double, round-arched window on the north wall, and a tympanum containing a window in the shape of a cross. The mullion is fluted.
The Gerekiz or Morga Pass was once used by the Romans, a fact which wouldseem to have been proved by findings of different gravestones dating from this period in the hermitage of San Esteban. This area is found on the watershed of the Oca and Butrón valleys.
Well worth a mention in the church of San Martín de Morga, although somewhat out of the way, is the sculpture of Andra Mari, dating from the 14th century, and the Saint James at the Battle of Clavijo on the altarpiece. It is said that this church was founded in the 10th century, and that it shelters the remains of Lord Manso López, who died in 920 at the hands of his son, whom he had besieged.
Our route continues towards the hermitage of San Salvador, in Aretxabalagana. This is a simple temple which nevertheless contains one of the most important artistic elements in Bizkaia, a monolithic stone window, with one square and two circular perforations divided by a small mullion-like column which stylistically corresponds to the first moments of Bizkaian Christian architecture, closely related to the Mozarabic style; it dates from before the 11th century, possibly the 10th.
Our itinerary will eventually coincide, as we have already said, with the Route of Oaths. This event was celebrated for the second time, after Bilbao, in San Emeterio and San Celedonio. The claimant had to kneel before a priest and swear to the Bizkaians that he would maintain and guard their fuero, or charter. From here, in the opposite direction from the one we are following, they would climb up to Aretxabalagana where, at the top of the hill, they would be kissed on the hand by the noblemen of Biscay who would accompany them to Gernika. The last known king to have carried out this ritual was Ferdinand the Catholic, in 1478.
On route
Way of St. James in Basque Country: Coastal road - Gernika-Lumo
08/10/2006
Gernika-Lumo was the place where the Lords of Bizkaia would meet, beneath the oak tree, in order to come and pledge to abide by their privileges.
Gernika-Lumo is especially relevant on this route. In the first place because its was here that travellers joined the road on coming from Bermeo, through Mundaka, Axpe-Busturia and Forua, having started their journey by sea and landed at this port. These travellers followed the remains of the old Roman road communicating the town of Forua (a site which has been undergoing excavation for a number of years) with the more romanized lands of the Mediterranean catchment area.In the second place, Gernika-Lumo is important because it has been considered as the cradle of freedom of the Basque people since time immemorial.
Located in the Bizkaian anticlinal, this town stands at the centre of the River Oca valley, at the birth of the Mundaka Estuary and beneath the rocky outline of the bordering mountains, with the outstanding Mount Sollube (663 m.) to the NW. This peak is recognised as one of the horn-blowing mountains of the Seignioralty, that is, from which horns were blown to tell people from the surrounding area when meetings were going to be held or warn them of imminent danger.
Formerly a parish, and later a town, founded by Don Tello in 1366 with a privilege signed in Orduña and granting it the Fuero, or charter of Logroño, Gernika-Lumo was the place where the freemen of Bizkaia would meet, beneath the oak tree, in order to go about governing the area according to their traditions and customs. It was to this spot that the Lords of Bizkaia would come and pledge to abide by their privileges.
Today the Casa de Juntas (Provincial Council Building), serves as the institutional headquarters of the Bizkaia General Assemblies, archive and museum. This complex centres around two basic buildings, the meeting room with its different offices, built in a Neo-classical style during the 19th century, and the atrium with the oak tree and hermitage of Nuestra Señora la Antigua, also Neo-classical, which is obviously not the one re-built in 1410 by Gonzalo Moro, the first mayor to be appointed in Bizkaia. According to a document from 1454, this building used to have an adjoining hospital.
The church of Santa María, started in the 14th century, and finished in 1715, has a large staircase leading to the atrium and to the Gothic splayed doorway, with a mullion and sculptures, as well as an outstanding statue of the Virgin Mary. The rectangular interior of this church has three naves covered with typical vaults.
Basque prisoners
Etxerat demands prisoners to be closer to home
08/06/2006
Relatives of Basque prisoners have reported that prisoners' dispersal aims at "causing the death and increasing the suffering of captives and relatives".
Relatives of Basque prisoners summoned by Etxerat have rallied on several Basque beaches in order to demand that their family members would be moved to jails in the Basque Country.
In Donostia-San Sebastian, around 50 people have attended the meeting. They have gathered next to the Kursaal Palace and soon later, they have walked to the Zurriola, carrying two banners.
Association of Basque prisoners' relatives Etxerat has claimed that prisoners accused of belonging to armed group ETA are suffering "exceptional" prison measures that, according to them, aim at "causing the death and increasing the suffering of prisoners, family members and friends".
"22 captives and 16 relatives and friends have died because of this prison policy", their statement says. According to it, most of Basque society supports the idea that Basque prisoners should take part in the process to solve the conflict.
Fiestas and traditions
Stone dragging, competition among oxen
08/05/2006
Stone dragging is only maintained in some rural areas of the Basque Country and it must be celebrated on special squares, called probaderos.
The ‘idi probak’, or events of oxen dragging stones, are one of the typical varieties of Basque Rural Sport. Their origin should be searched in the bets made by different farmhouses in order to settle which one had the best pair of oxen. In this type of events, two oxen joined by a yoke, by turns, must drag a huge stone the maximum number of times in a given time. In the case of Gatika, the stone weighs 1,780 kilos and the oxen must slide it along the probadero during half an hour.
Stone dragging is only maintained in some rural areas of the Basque Country and it must be celebrated on special squares, called probaderos, whose floor is formed by round boulders to make the movement easier. Besides the animals’ strength, the ability of the boyero (the ox herd, who guides the oxen) and the arreadores (who help the oxen by pulling the stone from behind) that accompany him is also important in order to balance the oxen’s rhythm and to guide them correctly while they come and go.
The ‘idi probak’, with a simple mechanism, arouse passion especially in the veteran baserritarras, who bet on one or another pair of oxen in a very lively atmosphere. This variety has a long-lasting tradition in Gatika, which has been vibrating with the oxen for 64 years.
University research
Favourable opinion on Basque prisoners' reintegration rises
08/04/2006
A research points out that a 41 percent of citizens is in favour or prisoners' reinsertion into society, while the percentage in 1996 was of the 33 percent.
The number of Basques who support ETA's prisoners completing their sentences has been reduced to the half in ten years, while the favourable opinion for reintegration into society has risen, also for those who have committed violent crimes.
A periodic research on Basque public opinion carried out by the University of the Basque Country and gathered by Europa Press has analysed the period between 1996-2006. Taking into account the data from May this year, once the cease-fire was declared, a 41 percent of Basque citizens shown their favourable stance to the reinsertion into society of Basque prisoners who have committed no violent crimes if the armed band dumps arms. In turn, a 40 percent shares that opinion but for all ETA prisoners, without exclusion.
As a contrast, the 9 percent of citizens favour the full compliance of sentences, a stance that the 18 percent of Basque society defended ten years ago, in 1996. In turn, from 1996 to 2006 the citizens' support to prisoners' reinsertion increased ten points provided that they have committed no violent crimes.
The stance of those who believe reinsertion must be for every one without exclusion has also risen, since a 33 percent of citizens defended that in 1996, and this year a 40 percent does so.
In the last semester of this year there has been a nine-point advance among those who believe that ETA members who regret what they did and voice their decision to dump arms should benefit from measures of reinsertion into society.
The opinion of those who think these measures should only be applied for those inmates who have committed no violent crimes has also increased two points. Among those who favour the full compliance of sentences there was a nine-point recession within the last six months.
Music
Silvio Rodríguez on tour around the Basque Country in September
08/04/2006
The tour of the singer and songwriter will visit the cities of Barakaldo, Pamplona/Iruña and Donostia-San Sebastián. His new album, Érase que era, will be on sale this week.
Cuban singer and songwriter Silvio Rodríguez will perform on September 2 in the Bilbao Exhibition Centre of Barakaldo, Bizkaia. This concert is within his tour around the Spanish State, and, as his recording company has confirmed, he will also visit Pamplona/Iruña on September 4 and Donostia-San Sebastián on September 6 and 7.
The Cuban singer and songwriter will visit many cities of the Spanish State during the months of August and September in a tour that will start in Galicia's A Coruña to finish in Madrid.
On this occasion, Rodríguez has decided to perform on small stages, except for the concerts in the Bilbao Exhibition Centre and Seville's Auditorium, trying to feel closer from the audience.
Niurka González's flute and clarinet, Oliver Valdés' percussion and Tríos Trovarroco (Rachid López, Maikel Elizalde and César Bacaró) will accompany him in his performances, as they did in the concerts he offered a few months ago in the Dominican Republic.
Silvio's new album, Érase que era, will be released this week, and it's the basis of the tour. The new work includes songs composed between 1968 and 1970, the most prolific moment of his musical life, as he says. "I always had the debt of many old songs," he says, and affirms that his new work "is for updating, but acknowledging that "that debt can't be paid off because previous songs always come out."
One of the greatest exponents of the New Cuban Verse, movement that embraces such musicians as Pablo Milanés and Amaury Pérez, he has searched a sound lacking "devices" and "fashions" to make "a document that puts forwards most truthfully and straightforwardly" each song.
Catalán, Anyone?
Spain is far from melting the pot
Published On Friday, August 04, 2006 12:21 AM
By STEVEN A. MCDONALD
BARCELONA—Before leaving for Spain, I brushed up on my Spanish by reviewing the nuances of idiomatic expressions and practicing my accent, hoping for a shot at being mistaken for a local, or at least, a Spanish speaker. My preparation however, fell far short of my goal. To fool the locals here would require learning an entirely different language—Catalán.
At first there was no problem: The hospital staff with whom I worked always spoke Castellan—Iberian Spanish—and the patients would in turn respond in Castellan. Everyone accommodated and willingly put aside their Catalán when I was within earshot. While my American accent did not convince anyone that I was a local and my occasional lapse of grammar or vocabulary made my origin even more obvious, I could still understand and be understood. That is until I had Catalán to contend with.
After two weeks, I worked with a different doctor. The first patient entered and fifteen minutes of Catalán conversation ensued. Afterward, I politely asked the doctor if he would please speak Castellan since I have not learned any Catalán. “That is your own disability” he replied. Weeks later, in a meeting, everyone obligingly spoke Castellan until one doctor accidentally lapsed into Catalán. When asked to return to Castellan, he replied: “You’re not in Spain. You’re in Catalonia.”
I discovered the views of these particular doctors were not unique in Barcelona. Within my first week, the ubiquitous graffiti and even official state propaganda made the Catalán position clear as day. “Catalunya mereix mes” (Catalonia is worth more), “Els Cataláns no sorn espanyols” (The Cataláns are not Spanish), and “Catalunya is not Spain!” are common messages to see scribbled on walls, benches, or emblazoned on buses traveling throughout the city.
The contention between the two languages actually peaked just after my arrival. Within minutes after stepping off the plane large posters, some saying “Sí” and other saying “No” were difficult to ignore. I figured that the Spanish government was not offering a Spanish language crash course to foreigners, but if not that, then what could these signs refer to?
The answer came a day later in Spanish newspapers. The headlines all shared one word: “L’estatut.” After asking some people at work and a friend in a contemporary Spanish government class, I learned how the Si’s and No’s related to this statute. “L’estatut” determines Catalonia’s level of autonomy—who controls the taxes, the languages spoken and taught in school, immigration into the region, and its relationship with Spain, among other issues.
The “Sí” posters encouraged voters to vote yes to “L’estatut,” giving Catalonia, and thus Barcelona, its capital, more autonomy and control over how Spain’s policies affect the region. The “No” posters were the propaganda of a liberal extremist party, which seeks nothing short of secession. They believe Catalonia deserves more than “L’estatut” permits, and backing instead an all-or-nothing policy, they wanted to turn it down.
June 18th, the day of the referendum, saw an overwhelming “Sí” to the proposal. Just like the last vote on the statute, this one will most likely jettison Catalonia into a future even more divorced from the rest of Spain, culturally and otherwise. The newfound Catalonian autonomy eliminates classes taught in Castellan. All classes in public institutions, from elementary school through college, will be conducted in Catalán. Castellan, the national language will be treated as a foreign language and given one period a day, just like English. Catalonia, one of the richest provinces in Spain, will actually give less tax money to the rest of Spain. Additionally, Catalonia will gain more control over immigration into the region from outside Spain. Reforms upon reforms are leading the region down the path toward independence. And Catalonia’s inhabitants already have a sense of deeply rooted nationalism, despite not being an independent state.
One night here, I escaped Catalán in a local bar filled half with foreigners and half with locals. I sought to get away from the ubiquitous language, and actually work on my Spanish. Upon finding a non-Catalán at the bar I immediately began to air my woes: All I wanted was to speak Spanish for a day, to read a newspaper in Spanish, to actually embrace Spanish culture without confronting Catalonian pride.
He quickly replied: “The Cataláns are weak” and then lectured me on how a region truly achieves independence. He was an extremist reporter from the Basque Country, which he declared to be its own country, though Madrid would say otherwise. I sighed. I might have been able to escape Catalán, but Spain was a step ahead of me with its four distinct languages. It is simply impossible to tell who is a “Spaniard” and who is not, revealing their whole modus operandi for integration was wrong from the outset.
As I was saying, last night when we finally arrived in Durango it was raining. Not storming or nothing like that, just that constant light rain that drenches everything.
although everyone knows about the bombing of Gernika by the Nazi Luftwaffe, it was Durango the first city targeted by Francisco Franco in his effort to destroy the recently created Republic of Euskadi.During the dictatorship of Primo of Rivera, the actual dictator came to Durango and opened the food market. On 31st March 1937, during the Spanish civil war (1936-1939), Durango suffered an undiscriminating and systematic bombing against the civilian population. Such an event had never happened in any part of the world before this time. More than 500 people died in the bombing and the occurrences the following days.
victims tried to find refuge in its interior not knowing just how powerful the bombs used against them were.Durango is a historic city, home of conquistadors like Francisco de Ibarra, and as a result there are more Durangos in America named after the Basque original one, not least of which is a state in Mexico called Durango, the principal city of which is called Durango.
And so it is that the "Ongi Etorri" bilboard sign told me that I was entering Araba. I was then able to soak in the Basque landscape. The flight delay was a nuisance, yes, but at least my entrance to Euskal Herria was quite improved thanks to the sunset I got to enjoy.
told me that I was now in Bizkaia. It wouldn't be too long before the bus made its entrance into the urban sprawl known as Bilbo. Once at the bus station I was so excited to be there that I forgot to retrieve the piece of luggage I checked in when I got in the bus in Madrid.
Anyway, so Juan got there and he decided to show me the night life in Bilbo's old quarters, known as Zazpi Kaleak, the seven streets. I finally got to engage in the famous Basque tradition called txikiteo, which is quite simple, you do not stay for a long time at the same bar, you actually have one drink and then you move on to the next one, what in the USA is known as bar-hoping.
It was around 7:00 am my time when we arrived to the Barajas airport, then I had to wait in line for little over an hour to go through immigration. I finally got to the bus stop outside the airport since I needed to go to the bus station at a place everyone called "Las Américas". I finally got there and I was lucky enough
to find a ticket for a bus that would depart for Bilbo (Bilbao) in just twenty minutes.
I liked what I could see of the town from the bus stop and I snapped a couple of pictures. I grabbed a bite and a coke and then we continued on our way. I fell asleep again but somehow I managed to open my eyes right when a big sign on the side of the road said "Ongi Etorri".
