St. James : From Gernika to Bilbo II

More traveling information for visitors to Euskal Herria courtesy of EITb:

Route of oaths

Way of St James in the Basque Country: From Gernika to Bilbao (II)

08/12/2006

Our itinerary will eventually coincide, as we have already said, with the Route of Oaths, where the Spanish king swore the Bizkaians that he would maintain and guard their fuero, or charter.

Before reaching the neighbourhood of Goikolexea in the Basque town of Larrabetzu, we will come to a Renaissance cross signalling the way up to Aretxabalagana. The recently restored temple dedicated to the martyrs of Calahorra (called Calagurris by the Romans), Saint Emeterius and Saint Celedonius stands in the Goikolexea neighbourhood.

Although this building originated in the Roman period, the temple standing today is no older than 1500. It still houses the stone table of the parish, around which debates were held and decisions taken on all kinds of subjects concerning the local community. This building houses one of the most important altarpieces in Bizkaia, Spanish-Flemish in style, in gold-plated polychromed wood, representing the Annunciation, the Nativity scene, the martyrdom of Emerterius and Celedonius, etc.

Larrabetzu is another of the twenty Middle Aged towns existing in Bizkaia, and was founded by Prince John in 1376. The urban layout of the town, still visible, was typical of those lying along the Road to Santiago: the houses were lined up one after the other along a street which was really part of the said road. The church of Santa María, still has a lovely, typically 15th century statue of Our Lady.

Civil architecture

From here we enter the valley of the River Asúa, which is now completely rundown due to its dense population and important industrial activity. Lezama, with its Roadside Shrine of Santa Cruz, dating from 1542, had an adjoining hospital and still contains a mural depicting scenes from the pilgrimage to Santo Domingo de la Calzada.

Zamudio offers the interesting church of San Martín, a dedication clearly related to the pilgrimage, and Malpica Tower, an excellent example of Gothic civil architecture, which, it is said, although based on flimsy historical proof, was raised in the 9th century by Galindo Ordoñez, grandson of the King of Navarre, Fortún Garcés.

Seven Streets

San Martín was built in the period of transition from the Romanesque to the Gothic periods, with 15th century Basque Gothic additions. Making our way through Sondika, we come to Artxanda pass, which separates us from Bilbao. The traveller will arrive at the Middle Age Bilbao of three and later seven streets, and the church of Nuestra Sra. de Begoña. The road takes us directly to Artagan hill, topped by the Virgin of Begoña.

This parish was the traveller’s last stop before entering Bilbao; in 1300 Diego López de Haro, the founder of Bilbao, mentioned the temple in a document about the foundation of the town. Outstanding from this period is the beautiful statue of the Virgin Mary, dating from the Romanesque transition (13th-14th century). Nevertheless, the present temple was built in 1519 and enlarged in 1588; Gothic in style with three naves, it has series of beautiful star-shaped groin vaults.

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Mundaka's Left Wave Is Back!

I spent a few days in Mundaka last week so it makes me real happy to find out that the town's world famous Left Wave is back for this year's edition of the Billabong.

Here you have the article by Global Surf News:

Billabong Pro Mundaka

ASP WCT Mens Event
Mundaka, Euskadi-Spain
3 - 14 October 2006

Billabong Pro Mundaka: The Bank Is Back

Surfersvillage Global Surf News, 11 August, 2006 : - - Following the cancellation of the Billabong Pro Mundaka in 2005, Billabong and the Association of Surfing Professionals (ASP) are pleased to announce that the tenth event of the Foster’s ASP Men’s World Tour is officially back from October 3rd to 14th, 2006.

Sand dredging in the years prior to 2005 caused the perfect left breaking sand formation of the Mundaka bank to shift, resulting in waves of a substandard nature for a World Championship Tour (WCT) event to take place.

It was the second cancellation in the events six-year history, after the second half of the WCT was canned in 2001 following the tragic events of September 11 in New York. Although the event has been on the 2006 tour event schedule since January, the ASP and licensing sponsor Billabong have closely monitored the formation of the sand bank, declaring that 2006 will offer quality waves, suitable for the top 45 dream tour.

The world’s best left-hander and the associated shifting silt river mouth bank is back, longer, thicker and better than ever. During the month of April in 2006, one of the best swells in 15 years pounded the Basque coast, turning on epic 8ft (2-3m) waves at the mythical left, surfers scoring some of the best tube rides ever ridden at the break.

The Billabong Pro Mundaka plays a crucial part in deciding world champions, an intense competition where tour leaders jostle for ratings points leading into the final two events of the year in Brazil and Hawaii.

Mark Occhilupo (Aus), Kelly Slater (USA), Andy Irons (Haw), Shane Dorian (Haw) and Luke Egan (Aus) are the only surfers to have enjoyed the ritualistic practise of being thrown into the river from the wharf following event wins at Mundaka, since the events inception in 1999.

ASP president and 1978 world surfing champion Wayne “Rabbit” Bartholomew said Mundaka is crucial to the ASP World Tour.

"ASP International is delighted to see the return of the Billabong Pro Mundaka following a one year hiatus,” said Bartholomew. “The fears associated with the temporary disintegration of the fabled river mouth sandbar have been allayed, the result being the world’s best surfers once again gracing this world class surfing arena."

Reid Pinder, Brand Manager of Billabong Europe said bringing the tour back to the Basque region of Spain is beneficial not only to the ASP tour but vital for surfing in Europe. "Returning to Mundaka for the Billabong Pro event is great news for all involved,” said Pinder. It was definitely a hard decision to cancel last years event, since then we have not stopped monitoring the situation.”

“It's great to see Mundaka pumping again and that Mother Nature could restore what human hands had wrecked. On behalf of Billabong, I would like to thank the ASP and the WCT surfers for their patience in a wave like Mundaka and expressing so much interest in its progress. We look forward in returning the WCT event back to its natural home in the Basque Country, at Europe's best left.”

“Billabong would especially like to thank Mundaka, the town and the surf club, for their concern, support and commitment in bringing back such a special event to their beautiful home."

The world’s top 45 surfers hold Mundaka in high regard, a favourite stop among many for the unique local culture, epic waves, beautiful scenery and friendly nature of the Basque people.

“When Mundaka was called off I couldn’t believe it,” said three times world champion Andy Irons (Kauai). “Mundaka is such a good wave and the place is so beautiful; I wasn’t really sure of what happened to the wave, with the dredging and the sand bank, and how long it would take to return, so I was really bummed.”

“I was hanging out with Occy at the time and he was the same,” said Irons. “That’s his spot down there, he’s the man, he’s kind of the unofficial Mayor of the place. When he shows up, everybody comes to see him, they know about his first name! He loves it, and he surfs the wave like no one else.”

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Honoring Karanka

This note about Aitor Karanka comes to us thanks to EITb:

Colorado Euskal Etxea

Celebrate Basque Heritage Night in Honor of Aitor Karanka

08/11/2006

The Colorado Rapids have announced that the game against the Los Angeles Galaxy on Saturday, will be the date for the first Rapids Basque Heritage Night in honor of Rapids defender Aitor Karanka.

In honor of defender Aitor Karanka, originally from Vitoria-Gasteiz, fans can immerse themselves in the culture of the Basque region in the Rapids Basque Village before the game from 5:30 to 7:30 p.m. on the Legends Mall. There will be booths with Basque merchandise, information on local Basque clubs, and a photo exhibit of Basque regions. Fans can also enjoy the unique sights of Basque dancers while listening to authentic music from the Basque country. The Buenos Aires Grill will be serving Basque food in the Village to give the night an authentic feel, and there will also be drink specials in the Rapids Beer Garden from 5:30-7:30pm.

At halftime, fans can enjoy an authentic Basque welcome for Karanka, when a short dance in his honor is performed and he is welcomed by the head of the North American Basque Organizations (NABO).

There will be a Basque-specific section close to the field and seats are still available for $10, which includes a red bandana courtesy of the Basque Night Official Sponsors: the Spring International Learning Center, and the Colorado Euskal Etxea. Also, for all Basque section fans, there will be a meet-and-greet with Karanka after the game where fans can ask questions and get autographs from the former Athletic Bilbao and Real Madrid star. For more information on the Rapids’ inaugural Basque Heritage Night, group ticket information, or to find out how your organization can participate in the Basque Village, go to www.coloradorapids.com.

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Basque Vinaigrette

Another recipe courtesy of EITb:

Recipe

Garlic paste and Basque "piares" vinaigrette

08/11/2006

Add minced shallot or garlic, minced fresh herbs, lemon zest and juice, cracked black pepper (garlic paste mix plus ingredients).

In a small bowl chop up equal amounts of garlic and parsley (equal amounts experiment with your own proportional mix).

Add minced shallots for taste.

Chop by hand or use a small food processor. No salt needed unless to your taste. Add butter, margarine or olive oil if needed (Different taste for meats do not use for vinaigrette - butter not as healthy).

Put in jar and refrigerate. Spread on meat before cooking. Can also be used as a ready mixed vinaigrette (see below)

Basque "piares" vinaigrette

This vinaigrette is delicious. It can even be served as a base as well.

Add minced shallot or garlic, minced fresh herbs, lemon zest and juice, cracked black pepper (garlic paste mix plus ingredients). Use it with grated carrots or beets, fresh tomatoes, or any other vegetable mixture.

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 to 3 teaspoons red wine vinegar
3 tablespoons bland oil such as sunflower
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper

Whisk the mustard and the red wine together in a small bowl. Slowly whisk in the 3 tablespoons of oil until the mixture is thickened, then whisk in the olive oil. Taste for seasoning. Makes about 1/3-cup vinaigrette, enough for about 14 cups of greens.

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St. James : From Gernika to Bilbo

Today I spent the day at Kortezubi in the vicinity of Gernika, this note I present to you was published by EITb:

Route of oaths

Way of St. James in the Basque Country: From Gernika to Bilbao (I)

08/11/2006

Our itinerary will eventually coincide, as we have already said, with the Route of Oaths, where the Spanish king swore the Bizkaians that he would maintain and guard their fuero, or charter.

We leave Gernika-Lumo and continue on our way towards Bilbao along the so-called Route of Oaths. The parish church of Muxika, San Vicente, is one of the few still to contain Romanesque remains on our territory. These remains take the shape of a double, round-arched window on the north wall, and a tympanum containing a window in the shape of a cross. The mullion is fluted.

The Gerekiz or Morga Pass was once used by the Romans, a fact which wouldseem to have been proved by findings of different gravestones dating from this period in the hermitage of San Esteban. This area is found on the watershed of the Oca and Butrón valleys.

Well worth a mention in the church of San Martín de Morga, although somewhat out of the way, is the sculpture of Andra Mari, dating from the 14th century, and the Saint James at the Battle of Clavijo on the altarpiece. It is said that this church was founded in the 10th century, and that it shelters the remains of Lord Manso López, who died in 920 at the hands of his son, whom he had besieged.

Our route continues towards the hermitage of San Salvador, in Aretxabalagana. This is a simple temple which nevertheless contains one of the most important artistic elements in Bizkaia, a monolithic stone window, with one square and two circular perforations divided by a small mullion-like column which stylistically corresponds to the first moments of Bizkaian Christian architecture, closely related to the Mozarabic style; it dates from before the 11th century, possibly the 10th.

Our itinerary will eventually coincide, as we have already said, with the Route of Oaths. This event was celebrated for the second time, after Bilbao, in San Emeterio and San Celedonio. The claimant had to kneel before a priest and swear to the Bizkaians that he would maintain and guard their fuero, or charter. From here, in the opposite direction from the one we are following, they would climb up to Aretxabalagana where, at the top of the hill, they would be kissed on the hand by the noblemen of Biscay who would accompany them to Gernika. The last known king to have carried out this ritual was Ferdinand the Catholic, in 1478.

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Gernika

One of the highlights of my present trip throughout Euskal Herria has been the chance to visit Gernika. Usually when I post information about this iconic town I do it referring to the brutal bombing ordered by the Spaniards to punish the Basque dream of freedom.

This time, thanks to EITb, here you have some tips in case you have the chance to visit this beautiful town:

On route

Way of St. James in Basque Country: Coastal road - Gernika-Lumo

08/10/2006

Gernika-Lumo was the place where the Lords of Bizkaia would meet, beneath the oak tree, in order to come and pledge to abide by their privileges.

Gernika-Lumo is especially relevant on this route. In the first place because its was here that travellers joined the road on coming from Bermeo, through Mundaka, Axpe-Busturia and Forua, having started their journey by sea and landed at this port. These travellers followed the remains of the old Roman road communicating the town of Forua (a site which has been undergoing excavation for a number of years) with the more romanized lands of the Mediterranean catchment area.In the second place, Gernika-Lumo is important because it has been considered as the cradle of freedom of the Basque people since time immemorial.

Located in the Bizkaian anticlinal, this town stands at the centre of the River Oca valley, at the birth of the Mundaka Estuary and beneath the rocky outline of the bordering mountains, with the outstanding Mount Sollube (663 m.) to the NW. This peak is recognised as one of the horn-blowing mountains of the Seignioralty, that is, from which horns were blown to tell people from the surrounding area when meetings were going to be held or warn them of imminent danger.

Formerly a parish, and later a town, founded by Don Tello in 1366 with a privilege signed in Orduña and granting it the Fuero, or charter of Logroño, Gernika-Lumo was the place where the freemen of Bizkaia would meet, beneath the oak tree, in order to go about governing the area according to their traditions and customs. It was to this spot that the Lords of Bizkaia would come and pledge to abide by their privileges.

Today the Casa de Juntas (Provincial Council Building), serves as the institutional headquarters of the Bizkaia General Assemblies, archive and museum. This complex centres around two basic buildings, the meeting room with its different offices, built in a Neo-classical style during the 19th century, and the atrium with the oak tree and hermitage of Nuestra Señora la Antigua, also Neo-classical, which is obviously not the one re-built in 1410 by Gonzalo Moro, the first mayor to be appointed in Bizkaia. According to a document from 1454, this building used to have an adjoining hospital.

The church of Santa María, started in the 14th century, and finished in 1715, has a large staircase leading to the atrium and to the Gothic splayed doorway, with a mullion and sculptures, as well as an outstanding statue of the Virgin Mary. The rectangular interior of this church has three naves covered with typical vaults.

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Basque Prisoners Back Home

This note comes to us via EITb:

Basque prisoners

Etxerat demands prisoners to be closer to home

08/06/2006

Relatives of Basque prisoners have reported that prisoners' dispersal aims at "causing the death and increasing the suffering of captives and relatives".

Relatives of Basque prisoners summoned by Etxerat have rallied on several Basque beaches in order to demand that their family members would be moved to jails in the Basque Country.

In Donostia-San Sebastian, around 50 people have attended the meeting. They have gathered next to the Kursaal Palace and soon later, they have walked to the Zurriola, carrying two banners.

Association of Basque prisoners' relatives Etxerat has claimed that prisoners accused of belonging to armed group ETA are suffering "exceptional" prison measures that, according to them, aim at "causing the death and increasing the suffering of prisoners, family members and friends".

"22 captives and 16 relatives and friends have died because of this prison policy", their statement says. According to it, most of Basque society supports the idea that Basque prisoners should take part in the process to solve the conflict.

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Idi Probak

I write these lines from Durango in Bizkaia, I hope I get to witness one of the rural sports' events mentioned in this article appeared at EITb:

Fiestas and traditions

Stone dragging, competition among oxen

08/05/2006

Stone dragging is only maintained in some rural areas of the Basque Country and it must be celebrated on special squares, called probaderos.

The ‘idi probak’, or events of oxen dragging stones, are one of the typical varieties of Basque Rural Sport. Their origin should be searched in the bets made by different farmhouses in order to settle which one had the best pair of oxen. In this type of events, two oxen joined by a yoke, by turns, must drag a huge stone the maximum number of times in a given time. In the case of Gatika, the stone weighs 1,780 kilos and the oxen must slide it along the probadero during half an hour.

Stone dragging is only maintained in some rural areas of the Basque Country and it must be celebrated on special squares, called probaderos, whose floor is formed by round boulders to make the movement easier. Besides the animals’ strength, the ability of the boyero (the ox herd, who guides the oxen) and the arreadores (who help the oxen by pulling the stone from behind) that accompany him is also important in order to balance the oxen’s rhythm and to guide them correctly while they come and go.

The ‘idi probak’, with a simple mechanism, arouse passion especially in the veteran baserritarras, who bet on one or another pair of oxen in a very lively atmosphere. This variety has a long-lasting tradition in Gatika, which has been vibrating with the oxen for 64 years.

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In Favour Of The Political Prisoners

Is good to be in Euskal Herria visiting friends, but what makes it even better is to learn that the Basque society has a positive outlook regarding the Basque political prisoners.

This note appeared today at EITb:

University research

Favourable opinion on Basque prisoners' reintegration rises

08/04/2006

A research points out that a 41 percent of citizens is in favour or prisoners' reinsertion into society, while the percentage in 1996 was of the 33 percent.

The number of Basques who support ETA's prisoners completing their sentences has been reduced to the half in ten years, while the favourable opinion for reintegration into society has risen, also for those who have committed violent crimes.

A periodic research on Basque public opinion carried out by the University of the Basque Country and gathered by Europa Press has analysed the period between 1996-2006. Taking into account the data from May this year, once the cease-fire was declared, a 41 percent of Basque citizens shown their favourable stance to the reinsertion into society of Basque prisoners who have committed no violent crimes if the armed band dumps arms. In turn, a 40 percent shares that opinion but for all ETA prisoners, without exclusion.

As a contrast, the 9 percent of citizens favour the full compliance of sentences, a stance that the 18 percent of Basque society defended ten years ago, in 1996. In turn, from 1996 to 2006 the citizens' support to prisoners' reinsertion increased ten points provided that they have committed no violent crimes.

The stance of those who believe reinsertion must be for every one without exclusion has also risen, since a 33 percent of citizens defended that in 1996, and this year a 40 percent does so.

In the last semester of this year there has been a nine-point advance among those who believe that ETA members who regret what they did and voice their decision to dump arms should benefit from measures of reinsertion into society.

The opinion of those who think these measures should only be applied for those inmates who have committed no violent crimes has also increased two points. Among those who favour the full compliance of sentences there was a nine-point recession within the last six months.

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Silvio in Euskal Herria

Ok, so, these are my first hours in Euskal Herria and I am trying to adapt to the jet lag and the difference of seven hours with Mexico. Reading the news I found out that Silvio Rodríguez will be touring Euskal Herria, but not until next month!

Here you have the note appeared at EITb:

Music

Silvio Rodríguez on tour around the Basque Country in September

08/04/2006

The tour of the singer and songwriter will visit the cities of Barakaldo, Pamplona/Iruña and Donostia-San Sebastián. His new album, Érase que era, will be on sale this week.

Cuban singer and songwriter Silvio Rodríguez will perform on September 2 in the Bilbao Exhibition Centre of Barakaldo, Bizkaia. This concert is within his tour around the Spanish State, and, as his recording company has confirmed, he will also visit Pamplona/Iruña on September 4 and Donostia-San Sebastián on September 6 and 7.

The Cuban singer and songwriter will visit many cities of the Spanish State during the months of August and September in a tour that will start in Galicia's A Coruña to finish in Madrid.

On this occasion, Rodríguez has decided to perform on small stages, except for the concerts in the Bilbao Exhibition Centre and Seville's Auditorium, trying to feel closer from the audience.

Niurka González's flute and clarinet, Oliver Valdés' percussion and Tríos Trovarroco (Rachid López, Maikel Elizalde and César Bacaró) will accompany him in his performances, as they did in the concerts he offered a few months ago in the Dominican Republic.

Silvio's new album, Érase que era, will be released this week, and it's the basis of the tour. The new work includes songs composed between 1968 and 1970, the most prolific moment of his musical life, as he says. "I always had the debt of many old songs," he says, and affirms that his new work "is for updating, but acknowledging that "that debt can't be paid off because previous songs always come out."

One of the greatest exponents of the New Cuban Verse, movement that embraces such musicians as Pablo Milanés and Amaury Pérez, he has searched a sound lacking "devices" and "fashions" to make "a document that puts forwards most truthfully and straightforwardly" each song.

Dang, I wish I could stay a couple of more weeks.

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