8 April 2006
BASQUE IN THE SUMMER SUN
See a different side to Spain in the country's north east
Liam Cairney
I BLAME Are You Being Served. Captain Peacock, Mrs Slocombe, Mr Humphries - it's all their fault my view of Spain has been skewed for years.
Remember the film version of the Seventies sitcom, in which the staff of Grace Brothers visited the Costa Plonka?
Well, that's the image I've always had of holidays in Spain - a landscape of half-built hotels and drunken Brits with bright red faces demanding full English breakfasts.
But now I have finally been, I can only say, boy, was I missing out. Admittedly, my trip was to the Basque region, in the north east, an area as far from the tourist traps as you can get, in more ways than one.
Known in the Basque language as Euskadi, it is in essence a country within a country, with a distinct identity - it has its own language and parliament.
First stop was Bilbao and as I learned about the city, I was struck by the parallels with Glasgow.
Like Glasgow, Bilbao was built on a tradition of heavy industry and shipbuilding. And also like Glasgow, as these industries declined, it had to reinvent itself as a more cultural metropolis.
The most striking visual example of this is undoubtedly the Guggenheim Museum. with its stunning titanium and glass curves.
But although a new Bilbao has risen from the ashes of its past, the city has not forgotten its illustrious history.
Bilbao's heart remains the old town, where the narrow streets are packed with shops, bars and restaurants, all surrounded by breathtaking architecture dating back as far as the 14th century.
The hours will fly by as you explore every nook and cranny, and if you get a bit peckish, you can stop off at the multitude of bars that offer "pintxos", a local version of tapas.
Most types of food are well catered for, with seafood the local speciality.
Leaving Bilbao, the next stop was San Sebastian.
About an hour and a half by road from Bilbao, the city is on the north coast, near the border with France.
In days gone by, it was the summer retreat for the Spanish royal family. The city is built around the stunning sandy beaches and breathtaking coastal views of La Concha Bay.
It's more of an established tourist destination than Bilbao but, unlike the resorts of southern Spain, it attracts the more discerning traveller.
The city has long been the Basque country's cultural capital and plays host to countless events, including a film festival and musical gatherings.
Like Bilbao, it is a city best explored on foot - and, once again, you won't go hungry.
Seafood is again top of the menu but venture into the surrounding countryside and you'll find restaurants such as Gurutze Berri offering a menu rich in game meat.
Just along the coast from San Sebastian is the town of Hondarribia. Built as a fortified town on a hilltop overlooking the border with France, it now has the status of a national monument.
Be sure and visit the town's stunning Parador hotel, built into the remains of a 10th century castle.
Many of the rooms and public areas combine the original architecture with modern facilities.
I barely managed to scrape the surface of what the Basque region has to offer. I'm just sorry it took me so long to discover such a wondrous destination. Damn you Miss Brahms!
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