Tuesday, October 01, 2002

Bilbao

After our visit to Gazteiz, it is now time to learn some information about Bilbao. Bilbao, (also Bilbo), in the west of Euskal Herria, is the capital of the province of Bizkaia. The city is the most financially and industrially active part of Greater Bilbao, Greater Bilbao’s 900,000+ inhabitants are spread along the length of the Nerbioi River, whose banks are home also to numerous business and factories, which during the industrial revolution brought heightened prosperity to the region.

Geography

A major seaport and industrial center, the city is located on the Estuary of Bilbao, the city's suburbs extending to the Bay of Biscay.

In the north, Bilbao’s city edge is considered to be around the towns of Erandio, Sondika and Derio, in the east it is encompassed by Zamudio and Etxebarri. The southern border passes outside Basauri and Arrigorriaga and in the west, Barakaldo and Alonsotegi are the furthest extremes. The urban area is enclosed by two small mountain ranges called Pagasarri (to the south) and Artxanda (to the north), this fact gives the city its nickname, "el botxo", "the hole".

Districts

The city of Bilbao is divided into eight different districts, including the following neighborhoods:

* 1st District (Deusto): Deusto, San Ignacio, Ibarrekolanda, Arangoiti, Ribera de Deusto/Zorrozaurre.

* 2nd District (Uribarri): Uribarri, Matiko, Castaños, Zurbaranbarri and Ciudad Jardín.

* 3rd District (Otxarkoaga-Txurdinaga): Otxarkoaga and Txurdinaga.

* 4th District (Begoña): Begoña, Santutxu and Bolueta.

* 5th District (Ibaiondo): Casco Viejo, Bilbao La Vieja, San Francisco, Zabala, Atxuri,(La Peña) Iturrialde, Solokoetxe, Abusu and the newly developed neighbourhood of Miribilla.

* 6th District (Abando): Abando and Indautxu.

* 7th District (Rekalde): Rekalde, El Peñascal, Ametzola, Iralabarri and San Adrián.

* 8th District (Basurto-Zorrotza): Basurto, Altamira, Masustegi, Olabeaga and Zorrotza.

History

Bilbao was founded as a village by Don Diego Lopez de Haro V, Lord of Biscay, on 15 June 1300 on the opposite river bank of an existing fishing settlement (now known as Bilbao la Vieja or Bilbo Zarra, "Old Bilbao").

Prior to formal establishment as a township, a village and port called "Bilbao" (the name designated in the founding village charter of 1300) is believed to have been located near an ancient wall (circa XII century) recently discovered by the "San Anton" Bridge. Other evidence suggests that first settlements in Bilbao came earlier near the "Malmasin" promontory.

The name of the city stems from Basque "bi albo" meaning "two river banks".

Nearby places like Sestao and Ugao-Miraballes have the same ending that could be Basque aho, "mouth".

1300–1600

Don Diego gave the city rights and privileges along with land for growth. At first there were only three streets: Somera ("Upper"), Artekale ("middle street") and Tendería ("Shopkeeper's"), following the pattern of three parallel streets found in other Basque towns, and the Santiago church, surrounded by a city wall. Bilbao was in the northern branch of the Way of Saint James, thus the name of Santiago (Saint James') church.

The city grew slowly but steadily, its area is now known as the "Seven streets", after the new parallel developments. The privileges conceded by the successive Lords of Biscay were resented, sometimes violently, by other chartered villas like Portugalete and by the unchartered villages. In the 15th century wars between noble families disrupted the city, which had reached a population of almost 3000. Three floods and a fire shook the city, and Santiago Church was almost totally destroyed. But once again the city recovered and it grew beyond the wall.

In 1511 the Consulate of Bilbao was granted to the city, this allowed Bilbao to be the main export port for Merino wool from Iberian peninsula to the northern European cities, like Antwerp.

Bilbao became the most important commercial and financial hub of the Basque coast during the Spanish Empire era. The swords exported through Bilbao were known in England as "bilboes".

1600–1900

In 1602 Bilbao was made capital city of Biscay, replacing the former capital Bermeo. The following centuries saw a constant increase of the city's wealth, especially after the discovery of extensive iron resources in the surrounding hills. At the end of the 17th century, Bilbao overcame the economical crises that affected the Iberian peninsula thanks to the iron ore and the commerce with England and the Netherlands. During the 18th century the city continued to grow and almost exhausted its limited space.

The 19th century's industrial revolution was crucial for Bilbao, with the developing of strong mining, steel and shipbuilding industries. At the beginning of the 20th century Bilbao was tone of the wealthiest cities of Europe, where the main banks (BBVA) and insurance companies were established.

Bilbao was besieged four times by the Carlists during the Carlist Wars in which the Basques supported the side that promised to uphold and respect the ancient Basque laws, but due to the defenders (the regular army and local Liberal volunteers), it was never conquered, as is recorded in the city's title ("undefeated").

In 1886 the University of Deusto was established by the Company of Jesus and a major plan for the city was announced after the village of Abando was annexed. The Alzola, Achúcarro and Hoffmeyer "Ensanche" (extension) project of 1876 almost doubled the city's area and was developed during the following decades, as it happened in other cities like Barcelona at that time.

The 20th century

In 1925, the village of Deusto was annexed and several other parts of the city were developed including Basurto and Begoña.

Bilbao sided with the Republican Government in the Spanish Civil War and was the capital of the first Basque Autonomous Government led by José Antonio Aguirre. A defensive ring, called "Cinturón de Hierro" (Iron Belt) was built around the city, with heavy artillery and a good number of bunkers linked by kilometers of tunnels. Despite these efforts, on 19 June 1937 Bilbao succumbed to Franco's troops' siege (aided by the betrayal of the engineer Goicoechea, designer of the defensive ring); the bridges were destroyed to stop the enemy, but the city survived relatively intact.

During Franco's dictatorship the city's heavy industries fueled Spain's economy and thousands of immigrants from central and southern Spain moved to Bilbao, the city and surrounding towns expanded greatly and sometimes chaotically. In an effort to accommodate the influx of immigrants in the city's limited space, the towns in the adjacent Txoriherri valley (Erandio, Derio, Zamudio, Sondika, Lezama) were annexed. This annexation was reversed in 1981.

In 1983 heavy floods struck the city, killing many people in the province and causing great damage to the old part of the city; the old Arriaga Theater was devastated. Since then the "Casco Viejo" (the old district) has been renewed, along with the general trend of renewal seen all around the city.

Regeneration and renewal

The city has recently undergone major urban renewal, in order to move away from the region’s industrial history and instead focus on tourism and services. The developments are centered around the new metro system by Sir Norman Foster and, most of all, the Guggenheim Bilbao Museum by Frank Gehry (featured in this post). The Port of Bilbao, formerly on the river, has been moved and expanded downstream on the Bay of Biscay, opening a great deal of central real estate on the river that has been the site of most of the new building. Other new landmarks include the Santiago Calatrava- designed Zubizuri Bridge and the Euskalduna Palace, a cultural centre, further downstream. The two points are linked by a new riverside passageway opposite University of Deusto, which provides an open green space for the city’s inhabitants to relax.

Tourism and monuments

As well as the famous Guggenheim Museum, the city acts as home for the Fine Arts Museum recognised as one of Spain’s finest art museums and recently refurbished) and the Maritime Museum on the Nervión’s banks, which recently hosted the RMS Titanic exhibition which has been touring Europe. Museums are only a part of the city's attractions.

Since the inauguration of the Guggenheim museum in 1997, eight new hotels have been opened in the city, reflecting the increasing interest for the city.

Museums

* Guggenheim Museum Bilbao
* Fine Arts Museum
* Basque Museum
* Maritime Museum

Churches

* Santiago Cathedral
* Saint Anton church
* Basilica of Begoña
* Saint Nicholas of Bari church
* Santos Juanes church
* Saint Vincent church

Civil buildings

* Arriaga Theater
* Bizkaia Delegation Palace
* City Hall
* Chavarri Palace (Moyúa square)
* Plaza Nueva
* Ribera Market
* San Mamés Stadium
* University of Deusto

Other

* Doña Casilda de Iturrizar park
* Artxanda Funicular
* Zubizuri bridge

.... ... .

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