The Gastronomic Tour of Donostia

This article will make your mouth water, literally.

It was published by The New York Times:

36 Hours in San Sebastián

By DENNY LEE
Published: November 18, 2007

WHAT is it about San Sebastián that has foodies reaching for superlatives (“culinary capital of Europe”; “best place to eat in the world”)? Maybe it was the French aristocracy, who imported their haughty chefs in the 19th century, turning this belle époque town on the Basque coast of northern Spain into an epicurean resort. Or maybe it's the food-rich geography, a scallop-shaped coastline sandwiched between the fertile sea and mountainous farmlands. And then there are the Basques themselves, who approach eating with the same fervor as they do soccer. Whatever the case, this laid-back surfing resort is not for weak-willed dieters. There are sweet-smelling cafes and mouth-watering bites to tempt you at every turn — not to mention having one of the highest concentrations of Michelin stars in the world.

FRIDAY

5 p.m.
1) THREE-BEACH TOUR

It's hard to conceive of a better-looking shoreline. A milelong promenade, which serves as the city's communal front porch, is lined with frilly balustrades, whitewashed cafes and matronly bathhouses. Concha Beach, the most popular of the city's three beaches, hugs the harbor like a golden pair of outstretched arms. Walk west toward Ondarreta Beach, with its tennis courts and old-money villas. Or walk east, past the tilting glass cube of the Kursaal Auditorium, until you see the rugged surfers on Zurriola Beach. Just find a spot of sand anywhere along the shoreline's graceful arc, put down your towel and ponder the delicacies that await from the sea.

9 p.m.
2) MOLECULAR GASTRONOMY

Potatoes powder-coated in clay? Crab meat in aspic and liquid nitrogen? The Basque region has emerged as a cradle of high-tech cuisine, and its shining star these days is Mugaritz. Foodies swoon over the brand of molecular gastronomy practiced at this spalike restaurant hidden in the countryside 20 minutes east of town (Aldura Aldea 20, Errenteria; 34-943-52-24-55). Its critics, though, call this two-Michelin-star restaurant pretentious, pointing to such silly touches as toothbrushes in the bathroom. The chef, Andoni Luis Aduriz, who apprenticed at Ferran Adria's El Bulli, is known for dissecting flavors with mathematical precision. An 11-course tasting dinner (112 euros, or $175 at $1.48 to the dollar, without drinks) included a deceptively simple salad, a micro-Eden of contrasting greens that tasted like spring; and a beautifully charred steak resembling a lump of red-hot coal, served with frites made from blackened radishes. Some dishes worked better on paper (sheep's milk curd with toasted fern, for example, was as bland as oatmeal), but if gastronomy is about adventure, Mugaritz offers a thrilling and eye-opening ride.

Midnight
3) COCKTAILS WITH A TWIST

Dinner might not end until midnight, but there's plenty of time to explore the pocket-size bars in Parte Vieja, the historic old town. Many are clustered on Calle de Fermín Calbetón, where you'll see tattooed bartenders carefully spritzing gin-and-tonics with freshly cut lemon slices. As you stroll around, listen for the mellifluous baritones wafting from a stone house on Subida al Castillo. It's the private clubhouse of the Gaztelubide Society, one of about 106 gastronomic eating clubs where men (no women allowed) gather nightly to cook and sometimes sing for one another.

SATURDAY

10 a.m.
4) MORNING TORTILLA

There's a long day of eating ahead, so start your morning lightly with a cup of cortado (a strong macchiato-like coffee) and a potato-and-egg tortilla, which you can find expertly prepared in almost any tavern, from smoky dive bars to designy hotel cafes. Next, work up your appetite at the Mercado de la Bretxa (along Calle de Aldamar in Parte Vieja), an underground market where you can gape at the dazzling palette of local ingredients, from line-caught squid and bright-eyed tuna to velvety morels and chestnut-fed Bayonne ham, proudly displayed in case after polished glass case.

Noon
5) NO JACKET OR TIE

As the wealthiest city in the region, San Sebastián has a finely honed fashion sense that goes beyond megachains like Zara and Mango. For modern streetwear, check out Loreak Mendian (Calle Hernani 27; 34-943-43-41-76), a homegrown label that is making waves. And for high-concept fashion, go to Noventa Grados (Calle Mayor 3; 34-943-42-07-60), a sleek all-white space that is part boutique, part hair salon, part art gallery. Try on a blue vintage-style silk dress by Manoush (185 euros). Or pick up a red-striped T-shirt by Daniele Alessandrini (125 euros). Don't worry about being underdressed; you'll see jeans and (cool) sneakers at the most chichi of restaurants.

2 p.m.
6) IRONIC CHEF

Pay homage to the father of modern Basque cooking. For 30 years, Juan Mari Arzak, a mentor of Ferran Adrià, has been showing off his technical wizardry and culinary humor at his namesake restaurant, Arzak (Avenida Alcalde Jose Elosegui 273; 34-943-27-84-65), a three-Michelin-star institution in an old country house. Mr. Arzak is now joined in the kitchen by his daughter Elena, who has kept the creative juices flowing. A recent 12-course tasting menu (130 euros) included a wonderful poached apple with foie gras yogurt and red berries dipped in liquid nitrogen, followed by a succulent lobster claw dusted with powderized olive oil and drenched in an onion-vermouth broth. Desserts were equally fanciful: grapelike dumplings filled with melted chocolate, ice cream made from cheese, and a vaporizing piña colada.

5 p.m.
7) TAKE A HIKE

Time to burn off that foie gras. Monte Urgull, one of two hills that flank the harbor like watchtowers, offers fantastic views of Isla de Santa Clara, the wooded islet in the middle of the bay, as well as the forest canopy that rambles inland. To see it, you have to hike up a moderately steep path shaded by pine trees and dotted with old cannons. At the summit, you'll find a crumbling fort, Castillo de la Santa Cruz de la Mota, topped by a huge statue of Christ, and a grassy park with plenty of lawns for a quick nap.

8:30 p.m.
8) PINTXOS TO PINTXOS

Now that you've racked up some Michelin stars, see how the other half eats. Pintxos, the tapaslike morsels that resemble bejeweled hors d'oeuvres, are served everywhere, as if the whole city were throwing a cocktail party. Start your pintxos crawl at Aloña Berri (Calle de Bermingham 24; 34-943-29-08-18), known for prize-winning creations like “sea balance squid,” which pairs onion-stuffed squid with a cube of toasted risotto, and a sorbet made with anchovies and garnished with a wafer of deep-fried fish bone (3 euros each). Some pintxos bars are known for a single ingredient. Bar Txepetxa (Calle de Pescadería 5; 34-943-42-22-27) specializes in anchovies, served with 20-odd toppings including sea urchin (2 euros). Bar Gambara (Calle de San Jerónimo 21; 34-943-42-25-75) is home to wild mushrooms (17 euros for a sautéed assortment). And La Cepa (Calle 31 de Agosto 7; 34-943-42-63-94) is a temple to pata negra ham from Jabugo, sliced paper-thin and spread on a wooden paddle (half portion for 18.50 euros). Sample a sushi-size bite in each bar with a glass of txakoli, a fizzy white wine that is poured into tumblers from a theatrical height, before following the crowds to the next spot.

SUNDAY

11 a.m.
9) HIT THE GYM

How do all those bronze beauties and surfers stay fit in this gluttonous resort town? The beachfront is studded with gymnasiums, some built into the belle époque promenade with treadmills and stationary bikes that overlook the sea. Among the nicest is La Perla Centro Talaso Sport (Paseo de La Concha; 34-943-45-88-56), a modern fitness center with fees starting at 19 euros. There is also a thalassotherapy spa, which combines hydrotherapy with salt water.

2 p.m.
10) SEAFOOD BY THE SEA

Combine two of San Sebastián's favorite pastimes: tanning and — what else? — eating. Stroll to the far western tip of Ondarreta Beach for nouvelle seafood at Branka (Paseo Eduardo Chillida 13; 34-943-31-70-96), a three-level restaurant with floor-to-ceiling sea views. Don't be fooled by the nightclub décor and trendy crowd; the restaurant takes its food seriously. Inspired pairings included anchovies with strawberries, and bacalao (salted cod) with risotto. Lunch, with wine, is about 50 euros. Afterward, find a spot on the beach or head back to your hotel room and take a siesta. Your palate deserves a rest.

~ ~ ~